Mercado de San Fernando Reinvented

(copyright foto: Madrid Differente)

This is a copy of the guest-blog that Arma wrote for the blog of LAGroup, an advisory bureau in the sector of culture and leisure time for which she worked back when she lived in Holland. You can find the original blog-post here.

Nu het bijna-napoleontische tijdperk van megalomane publieke investeringen in Madrid (denk aan top down geïnitieerde projecten als Madrid Rio, het nieuwe gemeentehuis in het Palacio de Cibeles en niet te vergeten de tot drie keer toe verloren bid om de Olympische Spelen) door de langdurige economische crisis tot een halt is geroepen, waait er een nieuwe en verfrissende wind van verandering door de stad: laten we het downscaling noemen of de trend van “small is beautiful”; bijna uitsluitend geboren uit lokaal initiatief en creatief ondernemerschap (bottom up).

(copyright foto: Luis García via Wikipedia)

We zoomen in op één van de beste voorbeelden van die trend, de Mercado de San Fernando in de multiculturele wijk Lavapiés die in de afgelopen twee jaar een ware metamorfose heeft ondergaan. De in 1944 geopende overdekte markthal voor verse producten leed aan het einde van het eerste decennium van deze eeuw - met name ingegeven door de economische crisis - een noodlijdend bestaan. Van de in totaal 56 stalletjes waren er eind 2011 nog 32 in gebruik… Toen ook de plannen voor de vestiging van een supermarktketen stukliepen, moest de Mercado wel in beweging komen.

(foto via site Mercado de San Fernando)

Nu - twee jaar later - herken je de markt niet meer terug: alle stalletjes zijn weer bezet, sterker nog, er is zelfs een wachtlijst van 70 gegadigden en in de zomer van 2014 wordt een restaurant van 700 m2 geopend. Die cijfers liegen er niet om, maar het wordt nog beter als we de Mercado kwalitatief onder de loep nemen. Er is een authentieke mix ontstaan van “oud” (traditionele vis-, vlees- en groentestalletjes die van vader op zoon overgaan) en “nieuw”. Nieuw is bijvoorbeeld de ambachtelijke bierwinkel La Buena Pinta van pionier Juanma. Nieuw is La Casqueria in het stalletje dat (zoals de naam doet vermoeden) vroeger ingewanden verkocht en dat nu tweedehands boeken per kilo verkoopt. Nieuw is Maniobras Reciclantes waar zo’n twintig ambachtslieden-nieuwe-stijl hun van gerecycled materiaal gemaakte spullen aan de man brengen… 

(foto via site Mercado de San Fernando)

 Stuk voor stuk gedreven sociale en culturele ondernemers die samen de schouders eronder hebben gezet om de markt weer tot de bloeiende buurtontmoetingsplek van weleer om te toveren. Hoe? Door het organiseren van de meest uiteenlopende culturele evenementen en workshops, gecombineerd met een sterke communicatie op de sociale media. Door het verruimen van de openingstijden, waardoor de markt bijvoorbeeld óók op zondag een graantje mee kan pikken van de nabijgelegen vlooienmarkt en publiekstrekker El Rastro. 

Maar ssshhhttt… niet te hard doorvertellen want DAN is het gevaar natuurlijk dat de markt ontdekt wordt door de massa…

Mercado de Motores

This weekend we discovered the 'Mercado de Motores', which, despite what the name might indicate, has nothing to do with the buying of selling of motors. This market was celebrated in the 'Nave de los Motores' in Matadero up until last year and the new edition, in the Railway Museum of Madrid inherited the original name.

Celebrated every second weekend of the month from September up until December 2013, the market takes place in the old railway station of Delicias, which once upon a time had a direct connection with Lisbon. Built in 1880, it is the oldest monumental railway station of the city, but it lost the competition battle with the nearby located Atocha trainstation. Closed down in 1969, the building was converted into a museum.

Always an interesting place to visit, the surroundings are even more special when the museum is turned into a market place. While strolling between the trains, look for second hand items, vintage clothes, shoes, books, vinyls... and this wouldn't be Spain if there wasn't a place to have a drink or a (delicious) snack. Not just a plan, but a 'planazo' - as the Spaniards would say.

Like our facebook page to stay updated on when the next market will be celebrated!

Interested in the architectural highlights of industrial southern edge of Madrid, such as the former abbatoir the Matadero, the Delicias train station, the former Aguila beer brewery, and so on? Take a look at our Industrial Architecture cycling tour!

Wines from Madrid in Conde Duque

Here is another one of those inititives we love about Madrid! Small events in one of the neighbourhoods or 'barrios' that Madrid is famous for. Last month we brought 'Tapapiés' to you, now we are back with the '1st week of wines from Madrid'.

The region around Madrid is not an obvious choice when it comes to wines, but over the years we have discovered that it actually has a lot to offer. There are 44 wineries around Madrid which carry the D.O. or the 'Denominación de Origen' Wines from Madrid quality mark. No less than 21 wineries are open to visitors.

But from today until Sunday there is no need to leave the comfort of the city to try these local wines, as they are brougth to the central barrio of Conde Duque. 34 Establishments in this quaint neighbourhood present different wines from 14 different wineries, to which each of them adds a special gastronomic offer.

If you need another excuse beside trying some new wines to leave the comfort (and warmth) of your home this weekend, then let the charme of de Conde Duque persuade you! This neighbourhood is full of little bars and galleries, nice restaurants and undiscovered corners. You can find more info (in Spanish) on the events' website, and a list of participating establishments on their facebook page.

Want more wine? Check out our wine tasting with Delia or contact us to visit a bodega close to Madrid.

Ever considered visiting... a cemetery?

Todays Spanish holiday, All Saints' Day, inspired us to write about one of our very unique visits.

Maybe you have noticed it walking or cycling along the Madrid Río park. The cemetery of San Isidro, the oldest still exisiting cemetery of Madrid. It lies on the south bank of the river, towering over the city. Located there, outside of the city center, in the 1850s so that the stench and the gases from the graves wouldn't reach the city...

 

Nowadays we can enjoy the graveyard, wandering around the monuments and family chapels, but this place houses many famous objects such as the 'Pantheon of the illustrious men' or the floating tomb of Francisco Godía Petriz.

If you are curious about the stories behind the graves then book a guided visit though MadWay.

As an excursion by itself, but also easily combined with one of our cycling tours, such as the Crisis close-up tour. We have excellent guides that can even get you into some of the pantheons... To get an up close and personal experience! Visit our website for more information or contact us by email for a tailor made proposal!

And... we're back! With Tapapiés

After a tumultuous year of internal changes and growing pains, we are reviving our blog. Instead of just one person writing, there will be three! Please meet the MadWay team: Arma, Yolanda and Sjoukje.

In the near future we will also present our fantastic monitors to you, so you get a better idea of who work together on the MadWay-experience.

For now, we would like to seduce you to visit the neighbourhood of Lavapiés if you are in town in the next three days. Don't miss the 3rd edition of the Tapapíes festival! 75 bars offering a special tapa at 1 euro. We recommend to start in the Mercado de San Fernando to try some of the 13 tapas on offer, and then take a stroll around the neighbourhood - the participating bars are easily recognizable because of the banners outside. Don't feel like wandering? Just ask the first bar you try for a Tapapiés map, highlighting all the places and their tapas.

Hungry for more tapas? Check out our a-typical tapas tour for those that would like to discover something different...